Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Traversing the Alps



This summer a friend asked me where my favorite European spot for ski training was located. The answer wasn't hard to come by - Ramsau am Dachstein. Since Russia, this has been my home for the past week.

Tomorrow, though, I'm off to the Northern Italian town of Bormio for the last World Cup before the big show, the World Championships. Leaving the the schnitzel, the spetzle, the sauna, and most importantly the trails that run steps right from the hotel will be a little easier than usual.

With the World Championships just around the corner, new faces have joined our team. It's good to get a bigger U.S. crew over here. Last week, three younger athletes from the U-23 Championships rolled into Ramsau. Today, ITA's own Laura Valaas made her way into the neighborhood.

I'm sure the next days will bring some stories to write about. Until then, enjoy the days. -Tk

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

My Muses, My Mission, Sing In Russia

The Russia I see is a rugged place. Resting to the north and east of Paris, Madrid, Milano, backed up against Mongolia and sharing the Caspian Sea with Iran, perhaps this shouldn’t come as a surprise.



Outside the city of Cton I am awoken to wheels bouncing over chunks of ice on a patchwork road. Outside, grey plumes from coal burning smokestacks mix with the white winter sky. On the ground, grey ribbons of footsteps once trodden, over and over, mark the path across the winter snow from blown-out apartment buildings to bus stop.

Stopped beside a bus at a traffic light, I see only a muddle of bodies behind the window, the condensed humidity of huddled people checkering the glass white with frost.

Beside the bus line, a convenience store sells smokes and supplies. A pack of Russian branded cigarettes costs ten rubles, or roughly 1/24th what Marlboros cost at home. A tall, thin can of sugar-free Red Bull, fifty-nine rubles. Some indulgences cost more than others.

Inside the apartments, the sight of color finally presents itself. Inside, laundry hangs to dry. A teammate says, “People living on top of people.” It’s more than a sentence. It is a statement. For this Southern Vermonter, who just purchased seven acres of land in Weston, condo living of any kind comes as an abomination. To some - to most perhaps - Stalinist era architecture leaves something left to be desired.

The Russia I see is a self-reliant country. Just as the Russian military designs, builds and flies Mig airplanes, we flew to Russia aboard a Tupulov Tu-204-100. The aircraft is designed, built and exclusively flown within, and to, Russia. The low bypass turbo fan engines burn more fuel than a similar sized Boeing or Airbus. The jet engines run in even the most extreme arctic conditions, though, and the Tupulov can land and take-off on unpaved, gravel airfields. With the weather too cold to race on Sunday – I awoke to -28C – perhaps this is a good thing. The world is full of compromise and negotiation, I guess.

The Russia I see on the World Cup, too, work in isolation. On the World Cup, the U.S. has an Estonian and two Swedish servicemen. As an athlete, I’ve had two American, two Norwegian and one Swedish national team coaches in my eight years with the US Ski Team. Growing up, my club coach came from Oslo before a scholarship at the University of Wyoming, followed by the Western U.S. lifestyle, lured her away from Scandinavia. In contrast, Russia employs Russians, and only Russians, in its coaching and service ranks.

The way I see this, the knife cuts both ways. By employing foreigners, we gain a perspective outside our own country’s way of working. These coaches and servicemen have a specialized set of skills and body of knowledge not easily acquired, nor in abundance within America. The study of economics might contribute something to this. Keynesian economics says demand creates its own supply. Maybe America has a surfeit demand for football commentators while Russia demands Russian-born, international-ready cross-country ski coaches.

Maybe this is a problem. Then again, maybe it is an organizational strength of the U.S. Team, free to hire and fire the best in the world, regardless what country of origin a passport comes from. Maybe we just need to collectively channel what my friend Colby, while hearing Obama’s inauguration speech, said to me. “Obama promised to continue ‘protecting and promoting America’s interests abroad.’ I say we start protecting and promoting skiing domestically. That’d be a fight well worth all of our time.”

The fight well worth my time these days is to do all that I can with the chances I have on the ski trails. Otepaa, Rybinsk, Val diDentro, Liberec, Lahti, Trondheim, Stockholm, this is mine, and my team’s, mission. I hope our sense of urgency, our professionalism and love of the sport leaves no other word to describe it. “This is our mission…” and you believe it, and follow it and join in on it too.

I am reminded of this sense of mission while reading through I Had a Hammer again. Told through the words and experiences of Hank Aaron, I Had a Hammer is the story of a shy and quiet and confident kid who would hit more home runs than Babe Ruth or anyone before him ever did. Mr. Aaron is also a man who did just about more with the home runs he hit than anyone.

Mr. Aaron was driven. And I don’t mean driven in a typical - or even major league ballplayer - sense. Rather, Hank had the kind intensity of purpose that stretches beyond all but the most Olympian of ideals, to attack one’s chosen profession with a Jesse Owens or Jackie Robinson-like sense of duty and opportunity.

“Damn it all, I had to break that record,” wrote Aaron when bearing down on Babe Ruth’s 714. “I had to do it for Jackie and my people and myself and for everybody who ever called me a nigger.

“Baseball’s role reached back to times when discrimination was an Irish concern, a German concern, an Italian concern. Since it first took shape in the grass of Hoboken, New Jersey, the diamond has been the Ellis Island of playing fields, offering its basepaths and batter’s boxes for the hungriest and readiest of able young men.

“If there’s a single reason why the black players of the 1950’s and 1960’s were so much better than the white players – it’s because we had to be. And we knew we had to be. There was too much at stake for us to screw up. Black people had been crying out for opportunity in this country for two centuries, and we finally had it.”

To get closer to the ideal set by Mr. Aaron each and every day; to help turn endurance sports into the Ellis Island for more Americans, young and old; to take the opportunities I have in front of me and pursue them with all my resources, this is the mission. “This is our mission.”

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

On to Rubinsk, Russia


The Tallinn night scene after the races in Estonia.

The days in Estonia have come to an end. Now I await a charter aboard Red Wings Air, headed to the Yaroslav, Russia military airbase for next week's World Cup in Rybinsk. I'm flying aboard a Tupolev Tu-154. N.A.T.O. calls this particular model of aircraft "Careless." I hope that isn't in correlation to the safety rating.

Honestly, though, I'm looking forward to heading to Russia. The course is good one. The Russians are into nordic skiing and make racing in front of them like you're putting on a performance that they share in. And I'm in getting in good racing shape these days with the World Championships around the corner in just under a month.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

among mountains and clouds

My attention drifts with the sights of Vancouver's skyline as I wind through the city streets. It's turning dark. Humidity drizzles from the sky. A caravan of three minivans carries a group of skiers that have converged from various outposts - Anchorage, Alaska, Wenatchee,Washington, Park City, Utah - to the capitol and most populous environ of British Columbia. The caravan snakes its way through Friday night's stop-and-go traffic. Modern towers and high-rise condominiums along the waterfront. The occasional Burberry store and clean-swept sidewalks with hedges groomed to the nines speak of the city's affluence. And its influence. In just over a year, the best sliders, skaters, skiers, hockey players and curlers will descend into Vancouver for the 2010 Olympic Games.

After passing by and taking in the eye-candy roaming around the University of British Columbia we roll through the forested grove of Stanley Park. The canopy of Western Red Cedar, Doug Fir and Western Hemlock reach heavenward, at times upwards of 250 feet.

The green, narrow-leafed Western giants remind me of my latest book, Young Men and Fire by Norman Maclean. The book unravels a story about the universe's four forces at work - sky, fire, earth and young men during a fire in the Gates of the Mountains in Montana, a wilderness area just east of the Missouri River. Partway down a ridge between the Mann and Meriwether gulleys sixteen Smokejumpers descended upon the burning forest just before the it turns into a blow-up, the most deadly - and least understood - fire. Of the sixteen, thirteen would never return.

"Smokejumpers were the fastest the nation had in getting to where there was danger," wrote Maclean. "They got there by moving in the magic realm between heaven and earth. When they got to a fire, they almost made a game of it. None were surer they could not lose than the Seventh Cavalry and the Smokejumpers."

Young Men and Fire is the story of how America's best and bravest got into more than a game with fire. The crown fire helped start bundles of spot fires. These turned into firewhirls, which in turn became the worst kind of blow-up known as a Halocaust that enveloped four square miles in ten minutes. A forty-foot wall of flame raced up the 76 degree Mann Gulch slope at seven and one-half miles an hour. All but three young woodsmen would suffocate, then burn to death within sight of the ridgeline. Young Men and Fire is a terrible tale. I highly recommend it.

In time, the evergreens give way to the Lion's Gate Suspension Bridge, named after the pair of peaks that definitively end the city's northern expansion.

Inside the Dodge, Gang of Four's on heavy rotation. The Leeds, England outfit cranks out a harsh, funk/punk sound with distraught lyrics layed atop.

Ought to control what I do with my mind
Nothing in there but sunshades for the blind

Love'll get you like a case of anthrax
And that's something I don't want to catch


Listening to Gang of Four comes as a sort of baptism by fire. The guitars, the beat, the lyrics hit immediately. I can imagine Dave Allen's slap and speed bass playing influence on Flea, the Red Hot Chili Peppers bassist's own style when he says, "The Gang of Four is the first rock band I could truly relate to. These limies rocked my world."

Go4 guitarist Andy Gill even left U2's Bono with a sort of superior-inferiority complex. "Hard. Angular. Bold. Andy Gill's chin is the black hole of '90s music we should have all disappeared into if we had any sense; a dimple atop the body politic, a pimple on the arse of pop. A Gang of Four metal guru, a corporation of common sense, a smart bomb of text that had me at home feeling like a typist."

After a sushi stop in Squamish, the road winds higher along the Sea2Ski Corridor to Whistler. For the next ten days - and the fourth time this year - this valley has become my home; to breathe in its maritime air, get lost and found in its fog, to slide on its various configurations of snow crystals. And dream out loud. My first chance to do this is Friday, January 16th when the World Cup makes its debut on the Whistler Olympic courses.

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

In Düsseldorf, Christmas Comes Early


The late afternoon Dusseldorf calm along the Rhein the day before the World Cup city sprint.



As I wrestle about in my coach cabin seat in seat seven hours into an eleven hour flight from Frankfurt to Seattle, the realization dawns on me - after six weeks and five World Cup starts in Europe - I am headed home. The day is Monday, December 23rd. Home just in time for the holidays.

I think everyone appreciates heading home. It's why we can relate to when Dorothy of Wizard of Oz clicked the heels of her glittery red shoes and said, "There is no place like home," for exactly this reason; there is no place like home. After spending a week in exile, in a Swedish cabin quarantined from the rest of my team, followed by five more weeks bouncing around Europe from ski race venue to venue, from hotel to hotel, I crave a little normalcy, the comforts of home. I look forward to the looks of city drivers as I ski through the snowy streets of Wenatchee on my rock skis with a yellow labrador as companion. I look forward to catching up with friends from the elementary schoolyard days; to striding it out along the first ski trails I ever knew; to sitting around the Christmas dinner table with my brother and sister, mom and dad, digging into a monstrosity of slow roasted prime rib with all the accoutrements.

And skiing. After starting the season with the most ebullient of hopes - I love that word, ebullient, meaning a bubbling up of high-spirited fervor and enthusiasm - I started the season slightly below my expectations and continued this progression through my next two sprint World Cups. Yesterday I awoke and I told myself, "Today is another chance. Let's make the most of it." Then I went out and did that in perhaps the most diabolical of ski race formats, the two-man sprint relay.

In bricks-and-mortar terms, the sprint relay begins with perhaps forty teams, broken up in two semi-final heats. The race starts with me racing one mile. I then tag off to my teammate Andy Newell. As he navigates his one mile segment of the race I try to recover before starting my next one mile race-within-the-race. This goes on for six miles.

The top three teams from each semifinal move onto the final. The next four fastest non-qualifying teams, regardless of which semi they raced, fill out the World Cup Sprint final. My teammate and I made it in as the 7th seed, the fastest of the "lucky losers." The eleventh fastest team, Switzerland I, was just .9 seconds behind us. Five teams, four spots in the finals, all separated by less than a second. Welcome to the razor thin edge separating success and close-but-no-cigar of World Cup competition.

Racing an hour later in the finals, under the floodlights of the otherwise dark of the Düsseldorf sky, is what it's all about. As I spin on an exercise bike trying to clear the leg-burning lactate acid out of my system between races, our Swedish wax tech Petter Johansson says, "You know, we could be on our way back to Sweden if you and Andy didn't ski so well." Johansson's smiling. Maybe even beaming, which is saying a lot of the most-practical of all people, the Swedish blue-collar worker. It's his way of saying, "Good job. Now forget this and focus on the task at hand. Let's do something special in the final."

It's chasing after moments like these that made me want to be a professional ski racer more than anything in the world - president, professional ball player, derivative analyst at Goldman Sachs - from the second grade on. Moments like these are confirmation that I made a pretty good decision.

For the coaches of the US Ski Team, I'm pretty sure helping athletes put themselves into opportunities like this is what keeps them in the sport, and away from their significant others for significant chunks of the year. For Johansson, I'm pretty sure watching his team rip around the track on race skis he prepared beats the 3400 kilometer road trip he made to get out fully-loaded Fiat Ducato cargo van from Northern Finland to Central Europe.

In the end, a Russian took out five other skiers in a horribly skied 180 degree turn on the fourth of six laps. Newell was one of them. Norway I, Sweden I, Russia I and France I all get away clean. We fight our way back, almost all the way. In the end, we finish fourth, four seconds behind the winning Norwegians.

Personally, only my third place in the 2007 Estonian World Cup classic sprint is a better result. For the United States, no relay team has done better, ever.

I am close. I am fit. After a couple weeks of mediocrity, the training, the talent, the desire and the racing opportunity are all coming together - an ideal way to end the first block of my racing season. Now I have a handful of days at home to enjoy, to get out for a couple hours on the tele boards, then sip afternoon cappuccinos, before my next hard period of training start.

The heart of the season beckons ahead. Bring it on.

Monday, December 8, 2008

Descending into the Heart of the Alps


"Abandon All Hope All Who Enter Here." -Dante
Man, could any old-time philosopher get it any more wrong?

When the big, white, fluffy flakes of powder stop confetting the sky, the sun of Central Europe rises from behind the Alps to coat the wintery valleys in sunny ecstacy. In the heart of the Alps, in a place like Davos, Switzerland, it is not hard to be a cross-country skier.

After three weeks of Arctic darkness, I soak up every ray of sun I can. For the first week in Central Europe I've been pulling the daily double on the ski tracks, then combining this with a few minutes, at least, in the cafe or the solarium, leaving my epic wanting mind hightingled with a kind of satisfaction that goes deeper, lasts longer, than the kind that comes from soft aluminum pop-top cans. Like I said, its not hard to be a cross-country skier here.

The night before last I hit the walking streets of Davos for a nighttime stroll. It's a quarter to eight; early for the subterreans that come out at night, late for the apres-ski crowd. But there they are, wearing their hardshell Lange and Rossignol boots, huddled around the horseshoe bar, some standing,the others sitting, all watching the World Cup Super G live from Beaver Creek, Colorado.

It's times like these where I am baffled by Americana. Coming upon a situation such as this I can't help but think, "We have three hundred million Americans, more television channels than most people have patience to flip through, and not one broadcaster buying the rights to show off the jewels of the world's winter sports scene?" Pure madhouse like craziness.

If it's out there, if Americans are given the opportunity to follow sports outside the dominant American three (of baseball, basketball and football) - and see it week-in, week-out - to get to know the athletes, to appreciate the demands of inherent in each respective sport, I think Americans, too, would find the intrigue, the entertainment value, inherent in track and triathlon, or alpine and nordic skiing. And maybe, just maybe, some kid in Seattle or Cincinnati would be inspired. Least that's what I think.

Sun Sets On Northern Scandinavian



After the World Cup races in Kuusamo, Finland on the way to the airport in Rouvaniemi, en route to Zurich, the sun poked through the trees. I'd just finished the weekend .3 second from racing the quarterfinals, my first, immediate goal in any World Cup sprint. I also got in my first World Cup individual distance start ever earlier that morning. A start - a decent one - to the year. I took the sighting of the sun as a good one. An omen of sorts.